Red Bamboo Snake

1 Overview

The Red Bamboo Snake, also called the purple-gray ratsnake, is a medium-sized, non-venomous snake. Gentle and nocturnal, it is easy to keep as a pet snake.

It is generally red or reddish-brown based, with three black longitudinal stripes on the center of the head and behind each eye. On both sides of the dorsal mid-line there are two black straight stripes, plus 9–17 brown cross-bands edged with black that interweave with the three black stripes. It is a precious and rare animal in China.

Chinese Name: Red Bamboo Snake (红竹蛇)

Chinese Alias: Purple-gray ratsnake (紫灰锦蛇)

English Name: Elaphe porphyracea (now Oreocryptophis porphyracea)

Binomial: Oreocryptophis porphyracea (formerly Elaphe porphyracea)

Kingdom: Animalia

Phylum: Chordata

Class: Reptilia

Order: Squamata

Suborder: Serpentes

Family: Colubridae

Species: Oreocryptophis porphyracea

Distribution: Taiwan, central and southern China, India.

2 Physical Characteristics

Its form is very beautiful, commendable in both looks and temperament; importantly it is small and non-venomous, suiting snake enthusiasts. Adults reach about 80–90 cm, maximum 110 cm.

It has a head and neck of equal thickness with smooth scales. Generally red or reddish-brown based, with three black longitudinal stripes on the center of the head and behind each eye. On both sides of the dorsal mid-line there are two black straight stripes, plus 9–17 brown cross-bands edged with black interweaving with the three black stripes.

3 Husbandry

It is oviparous, inhabiting mountains and forests in the wild. Gentle, it has long been popular with people. A typical nocturnal snake, active at night. In captivity it accepts only newborn pinky mice, though adults have been recorded eating adult mice. Feed at night to avoid waste. After feeding, do not handle — it may choke and die suddenly. Feed 2–4 times a month.

4 Habitat and Environment

Also called the purple-gray ratsnake, the hardest part of keeping it is the enclosure. It demands high humidity (80–95%) and temperatures of 18–22°C, not exceeding 28°C.

Enclosure: for airflow, choose a cage with mesh on both sides; use glass (cooler than wood, resists rot in high humidity). Choose a larger size, about 65–80 cm; spacious space forms a temperature gradient and aids airflow.

Layout: soil, water pool, branches, rock caves — all essential. Especially the hide: the more cluttered the better; the purple-gray is very shy, active only at dawn, hiding under rocks or grass otherwise. Excess disturbance and handling are a top cause of high mortality. Keep the cage in a cool, shaded place; avoid sunlight or extra heating — certain death. It hibernates; in winter no heating, lower soil humidity to 40% for safe overwintering.

Substrate: as important as food — the only way captive reptiles get trace elements. Native snakes are wild-caught and must not adapt to no substrate or newspaper. Use rainforest substrate mixed equally with sphagnum to raise humidity; add red mountain soil to increase acidity (dig yellow/brown soil under trees, not orange which has harmful minerals). Wild soil provides unknown trace elements; sun-dry before mixing to avoid parasites; replace with fresh wild soil monthly. Add dried leaves (bamboo best). Place granite or mica in the soil to lower surface temperature.

Water pool: essential for this terrestrial snake needing very high humidity — for drinking, soaking, and as the best guarantee of humidity and low temperature; regular soaking also lowers kidney-disease risk. Branches: optional, mainly decorative. Vegetation: unnecessary since the cool cage can’t support photosynthesis. Hide: extremely important — cluttered branches or, best, rock-built caves using broken ceramic pots (not clay) with granite/mica inside as a cool retreat. Misting: twice daily, morning and evening. Optionally a small exhaust fan for airflow.